Storm water is more than just water. Rain and snowmelt wash dirt, excess nutrients, grease, trash and more from roads, parking lots and other hard surfaces into storm drains and ditches, which empty directly into our lakes, streams and rivers. This results in weed-choked lakes, muddy rivers that flood and fewer game fish and more rough fish. Sediments and nutrients cause many of the problems we see in Dane County's lakes and streams. The way to protect and clean them is to make sure that only rain and nothing else goes down the storm drains and into the ditches. Following are suggestions that you can make a contribution to clean water. More information
Home
Day-to-day urban activities disrupt the cycle of water movement and pollute Dane County's water resources. Many of the things that we do in our communities and around our homes can create problems for lakes and streams. There are many things you can do to improve water quality. Little changes collectively make a big difference. Think of environmental consequences in addition to conveniences. Be conservative and resourceful, don't be wasteful.
downspouts
- Direct roof downspouts away from foundations and driveways to planting beds and lawns where the water can safely soak into the ground. Use a rain barrel where practical.
- Put splash guards on downspouts to help reduce erosion. Plant a rain garden and direct downspout to empty into rain garden.
salt/deicers
household hazardous waste disposal
Yard and Garden
Rethinking yard care can save time and money. Many sources of urban water pollution originate right at home. Excessively or improperly applied fertilizers and pesticides can wash into storm drains and ditches. These chemicals then travel to lakes and streams. Clearly, there is a need to rethink what we're doing at home if urban waters are to be clean and usable.
For some, yard care can be a very rewarding pastime; for others, it is merely a chore necessary to protect the investment in a property's appearance. Regardless of motivation, most homeowners rely, at one time or another, on lawn and garden pesticides and fertilizers. Unfortunately, routine use of these chemicals threatens to open a Pandora's Box of unintended environmental consequences. Following some common-sense guidelines, however, will bring about healthy lawns and gardens and minimize environmental problems. More information
lawn
- What works for nature can work for you. By properly mowing, mulching, and composting leaves and grass clippings, you can reduce fertilizing, watering, and weeding. Grass clippings allowed to remain on lawns instead of being raked or bagged provide nutrients for your turf. Even pests become less of a problem if more "natural diversity" in plantings is used-as opposed to typical urban uniformity-so that susceptible plants are grown farther apart.
- If you have natural or "wild" areas on your property, think twice before deciding to convert them to more formal landscaped areas. Natural landscapes often require less time and money to maintain than formal landscapes, and are usually the best at preventing water pollution from runoff. This is especially important for waterfront property.
- Mow often enough to leave grass clippings on the lawn.
- Seed bare soil and cover it with a mulch as soon as possible to minimize erosion. Disturb no more ground than necessary for a project, while preserving existing vegetation.
- More information:
fertilizers
- Healthy lawns, trees and shrubs add to the beauty and value of a home. They also keep our lakes and streams clean by allowing rainwater to filter into the soil rather than running into storm sewers. Maintaining healthy lawns and landscape plants, however, often requires the use of fertilizers and improper fertilizer use can cause water pollution.
- Fertilizers, leaves and grass clippings contain nitrogen and phosphorus. When these nutrients wash into lakes and streams they promote unsightly algae blooms and lower dissolved oxygen levels in the water.
- Fertilizer carelessly applied on one lawn can be a waste of the homeowner's money. On hundreds or thousands of lawns, careless over-application creates problems for local streams and lakes.
- The label on a fertilizer bag has three numbers indicating the percentage (by weight) of the three nutrients most essential to healthy lawns. Nitrogen (N) is always listed first, followed by phosphate (P2O5), which supplies phosphorus, and potash (K2O), which supplies potassium. Therefore, a 25 lb. bag of 25-4-5 fertilizer contains 25% (6.25 lbs.) nitrogen, 4% (1 lb.) phosphate, and 5% (1.24 lbs.) potash. The remainder is made of ingredients such as sand or ground limestone.
- Never use fertilizer unless a soil test shows you need one. Call 608-224-3700 to learn more about how to test your soil. Keep in mind that soil needs for your garden will likely vary from your turf's needs. Fertilizing when your lawn doesn't need it is a waste of your money.
- Most organic fertilizers contain relatively low concentrations of plant nutrients compared to synthetic fertilizers and release nutrients more slowly. Slow-release fertilizers provide a lower concentration of nutrients over a longer period of time. Fast-release fertilizers do the opposite.
- On heavy (clay) or compacted soils, fast release fertilizers are better than slow- release fertilizers. The longer a fertilizer granule remains undissolved, the greater the chances of it being washed into waterways. On sandy soils, however, nitrogen can leach through the soil into the groundwater. On these soils, slow release nitrogen is preferred. Slow release nitrogen sources provide soluble nitrogen over a period of time so there is not a large concentration of nitrogen available for leaching.
- Fertilize in the autumn, never in spring. Spring applications can actually harm lawns by promoting more top (leaf) growth than root growth. Shallow root systems are unable to sustain lawns through a drought or a harsh winter. Fall fertilizer applications, however, promote deep, healthy root systems and hardy lawns.
- Fall fertilizer applications should be made when the average daily temperature drops to 50°F.
- When careless fertilization is followed by routine removal of grass clippings (a natural source of nitrogen) further fertilization is required. The cycle of fertilizing, rapid growth, more cutting and bagging, more fertilizing, etc. gets to be time consuming and costly. It also increases the chance that fertilizer will be washed off to lakes and streams.
- Test the soil. Before planting a garden or fertilizing your lawn, have the soil tested. A soil test takes the guesswork out of fertilization.
- Fertilize lawns in the fall. Fall fertilization promotes healthy lawns with deep roots.
- Healthy trees and shrubs do not require an annual fertilizer application. Overfertilized shrubs, in fact, will produce more growth and require more pruning.
- Sweep all fertilizers, soil, and vegetation off paved surfaces.
- Fertilizers, soil particles, grass clippings and leaves contain nitrogen and phosphorus, which can cause nuisance algae growth if washed through storm sewers into nearby water-ways. In addition, decomposing leaves and grass clippings can rob streams and lakes of oxygen.
- Contact your county UW-Extension office. Soil testing information and fertilizer recommendations for lawns and gardens, and suggestions for selecting the right plants, are available at your county UW-Extension office.
- More information:
pesticides
- Pesticides and fertilizers should not be mixed.
- Using weed killers at the wrong time of year or spraying with insecticides "just to be on the safe side" is wasteful and environmentally damaging.
- Read all directions and warnings on the product labels. Pesticides should be a last resort. Using such chemicals without proper diagnosis of the problem and careful application is similar to a doctor prescribing medicine with potentially serious side effects for a condition that proper diet and moderate exercise could cure. Resist the urge for a quick chemical solution.
- Because yard care chemicals are readily available and easy to apply, there is a danger that their results is underestimated, especially if previous use resulted in no adverse incident. Although it's tempting to skip the instructions and just "get the job done," pesticide application is not the time to overlook something so important. The suffix "-icide" means "to kill." Insecticides kill insects, herbicides kill plants and fungicides kill fungus species. While greater success is realized every year developing chemical and application methods that are more target-specific, the fact remains that pesticides sometimes kill living things other than their targets.
- If beneficial predators (such as birds) are poisoned along with pests, then natural controls are gone, allowing pests to multiply more rapidly. This may further the need for more chemicals and set in motion an unfortunate and unintended cycle. Thus the yard can get "hooked" on a pesticide.
- When used in heavier-than-recommended concentrations, nearly all yard care chemicals can pose an environmental problem. This not only wastes money, but puts the applicator, family, neighbors, beneficial plants and animals, and downstream waters at risk. Many recommended label rates are already liberal, designed so that products still work under less than optimal conditions.
- Even under-application can create problems. If label directions are misread or pesticides are being "sprayed about" in diluted amounts just to use up existing supplies, then chemicals will not be effective and needlessly enter the environment. Also, pest populations subjected to non-lethal doses may begin to genetically develop resistance to the chemicals designed to kill them.
- Clean up any spilled chemicals. Chemicals spilled on pavement during chemical mixing and loading can quickly be washed away with the next rain to pollute lakes and streams. If not cleaned up, a sometimes-severe health threat may also persist. Fortunately, an impermeable surface can contain some spills and allow time for clean-up.
- Limit the use of toxic or hazardous products in general. Keep them away from storm sewers, lakes, and streams.
- More information
Leaves
Leaves and grass clippings naturally contain nutrients such as phosphorus and nitrogen. If leaves and grass are raked or blown into the street gutter, the leaves and the nutrients they contain can be washed away before collection and end up in our lakes and streams, contributing to algae blooms.
Leaves and grass can also clog storm sewers and contribute to localized flooding. Burning these yard "wastes" not only releases air pollutants, but the ashes can pollute lakes and streams if carried away by stormwater runoff. Street sweeping is not intended to capture large quantities of leaves.
So, here are some options for leaf management that will also help your lakes and streams.
- Compost your leaves. Place composted leaves in your vegetable and flower beds. Composted leaves amend soil that's healthy for plants and it’s free! Compost bins start at about $35 and come in various sizes and shapes or you can also make a simple leaf bin from chicken wire or other metal fencing. The leaves will take longer to break down if they are not shredded or mixed with other wastes, but they will eventually decay, leaving a nice crumbly humus which can be put on gardens and lawns to enrich the soil.
- Use leaves as mulch. Rake leaves to vegetable and flower gardens, under shrubs or around trees to help suppress weeds and help prevent weed seeds that sprout in the spring. Decayed leaves enhance the soil for any planting bed and save money on purchased mulch.
- Mow leaves. Leave the leaves shredded by your lawn mower right on your lawn. The small pieces quickly break down, releasing nutrients for a green, well-fed lawn. Or if using a bagger, use the chopped up leaves as mulch.
- Keep fallen leaves out of the street gutter. Use a blower or sweep them back on to your lawn.
- Follow your municipality's guidelines for leaf collection if you rake. Contact them for more information. Information on MAMSWaP municipalities’ pick up requirements can be found through the links below:
Municipality Options City of Fitchburg B, C City of Madison A, C City of Middleton A, C City of Monona C City of Stoughton C City of Sun Prairie B City of Verona C, D Village of Cottage Grove C Village of DeForest C Village of Maple Bluff A Village of McFarland B Village of Shorewood Hills A Village of Waunakee A Town of Blooming Grove B Town of Burke C Town of Madison A Town of Middleton C Town of Westport C Town of Windsor C Dane County C Option A
Leaves raked to terrace, but not in the street.
Option B
Leaves placed in bags at curb.
Option C
Yard Waste Drop Off Sites. Contact your municipality for locations. If your municipality does not have a drop off site, all Dane County residents may take their leaves to the county compost site.
Option D
Verona only: Because of machinery limitations, actually requires residents to rake leaves directly in the street.
Resources:
buffers
- For waterfront property, grow a "buffer strip" of dense, natural vegetation along the water's edge to filter pollutants and stabilize the shoreline.
- More information:
planning
- A long-term solution to yard maintenance problems, therefore, is proper planning, especially, of landscape plantings. This can reduce the need for chemicals and increase the amount of precipitation absorbed by the ground. The water that does run off is also likely to be cleaner, and the yard more attractive and enjoyable.
- Plan for greater harmony with natural surroundings.
- Plan your landscape with environmental health in mind, reducing the area that is heavily maintained.
plant selection
- Choose natives that are best suited to our climate. They are hardier and require less maintenance.
- Plant an extra tree for multiple environmental benefits, especially where it becomes part of a planting bed or "naturalized" landscape area that recycles leaves, twigs, and other yard "wastes."
rain gardens
- Rain gardens are shallow depressions that are planted with native flowering plants and grasses, which not only looks great, but also helps soak up rain water and melted snow. The runoff soaks into the ground rather than causing erosion or carrying pollution to the nearest lake or stream.
- Cost can vary from no cost to thousands. If you do the design, digging and planting, you can save a lot of money. The biggest expense is usually the plants.
- Rain gardens require little maintenance once established. It's also that much less turf you have to mow!
- More information:
Compost
- Saves you money by reducing the need for expensive bags and commercial soil additives.
- Helps your garden and lawn by improving the fertility and health of your soil.
- Saves water by helping the soil hold moisture and reducing water runoff.
- Benefits the environment by recycling valuable organic resources.
- Turns fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, tea leaves, grass clippings, leaves and other yard waste into “black gold” for your gardens.
- Doesn’t use dairy or meat products, bones, lard, mayonnaise, pet waste, oils or fats, so put these items in your garbage.
- More on composting:
rain barrels
- A rain barrel collects rainfall running off a roof and stores it for future use, such as watering flowers and garden plants when the weather turns dry.
- Rain water can be better for plants than water pumped from the ground or piped through a city water main. It's not chlorinated, fluoridated or loaded with dissolved salts. Rainwater is mildly acidic, which helps plants take up important minerals from the soil.
- Rain barrels are usually about 40-60 gallons. You can purchase commercially made ones, but many watershed groups sell them. You can also make your own if you have a barrel. The simple parts are available at any hardware store.
- To purchase a rain barrel, contact Sustain Dane at www.rainfordane.org or 608-316-6844 or the Upper Sugar River Watershed Association at www.usrwa.org or 608-437-7707.
- Properly maintained rain barrels do not provide breeding sites for mosquitoes or other pests.
- You can attach a hose to it and direct the water to where you want it.
- It saves you money on your water bill and helps reduce the amount of water that must be treated as wastewater.
- They also help prevent stormwater pollution.
erosion control
- If your garden is on a slope, plant rows along the contour, rather than up and down the slope. This helps slow runoff and decreases the rate of soil erosion.
- Spread mulch around your garden plants using compost or grass clippings to help reduce erosion, keep moisture in the soil, suppress weed growth and add nutrients.
- Build steps of logs or old railroad ties on areas with steep slopes to help prevent erosion. Between steps, spread a thick layer of wood chips to protect the soil.
- Seed exposed areas with grass or some other groundcover. After seeding spread mulch over the area to help keep the seeds moistand in place until they germinate. On steeper slopes you should cover the mulch with burlap netting for extra protection.
- Cover piles of soil with tarps to prevent it from blowing or washing away until you are ready to use it.
Animal Waste
pets
- Clean up pet wastes. Nutrients and bacteria from cats and dogs may wash toward lakes and streams.
- Flush pet waste down the toilet, bury it in the yard or dispose of it in a specially designed pet waste composter.
- Never put pet waste in or near a vegetable garden or in a compost pile that will be used in the vegetable garden.
- More information:
geese and ducks
- Do not feed geese and ducks. It is against the law in many areas and contributes to dense numbers of birds congregating in areas they would not otherwise gather.
- If you own waterfront property, plant a native buffer on the waters' edge. This will help deter waterfowl from congregating on your lawn. They instinctively like to be able to see the water, so plants blocking their view helps keep your yard free of their droppings and prevents it from washing into the lake.
Car Care
- The connection between auto maintenance and water quality can be very serious and direct. Anything that drips from a motor vehicle onto pavement-oil, grease, gasoline, brake fluid, antifreeze-can quickly be flushed into lakes with a rainstorm. These materials are toxic to downstream aquatic life. Downspouts positioned to empty directly onto driveways compound the problem.
- Dumping oil into a storm sewer grate has almost unthinkable consequences. Five quarts of oil can create a slick as large as two football fields and persist on mud or plants for six months or more.
- Collect oil and other automotive products preferably for recycling, or tightly seal and wrap them for proper disposal.
- Wash cars on the lawn, where soapy water can't quickly run toward the nearest storm sewer, picking up other pollutants as it goes.
- Keep cars tuned up and in good operating condition. Check for drips and repair leaks immediately to keep nuisance oils off pavement. Better yet, walk, bike or take the bus.
- More information:
In Your Community
runoff
- Removal of vegetation during development and its replacement with streets, rooftops, and driveways has significantly decreased the amount of rainfall absorbed by the soil. As a consequence, the amount of water running off toward nearby lakes and streams increases dramatically.
- In addition, storm water drainage systems are typically designed to remove water from developed areas as quickly as possible during a storm. While these systems are convenient for urban residents, they also carry pollutants to surface waters at a "rapid transit" pace. Contrary to popular belief, pet wastes, oil and other materials dumped into storm sewer grates do not go to the sewage treatment plant, but flow directly to streams and lakes.
- Support and follow ordinances that limit soil erosion from construction sites.
- Encourage detention ponds and other storm water management practices that reduce runoff pollution by temporarily holding water or letting it soak into the ground.
- Encourage the safe but conservative use of salt on roads and limit application to critical areas.
- Tell public officials about your interest in cleaning up local waters and about their value to recreation and the economy.
- Support the preservation of wetlands as natural filters that protect water quality, prevent flooding, and provide vital open space.
- Promote "environmental or parkway corridors" adjacent to streams and waterways for water quality, wildlife, and multiple-use benefits.
- Participate in groups, projects and events that promote conservation, waterfront recreation, or shoreline clean-ups.
local resource protection groups
how to contact officials
- Click on your municipality to learn more about how to contact your local officials.
where to get local info
- Click on your municipality to learn more about how to get local info.
leaf collection schedules
- Click on your municipality to learn more about how and when leaves are collected.
compost drop off and pickup sites
- Click on your municipality to learn more about compost sites.
events: compost bin sales, friends' events, Yahara Lakes Week and Take a Stake in the Lakes
storm drain stenciling and marking
- Contact the UWEX office at 608-224-3700 for more information. http://clean-water.uwex.edu/pubs/pdf/storm.drain.pdf
household hazardous waste disposal site hours
Dane County Water Resources
Other Environmental Issues
agricultural issues
shoreland protection/restoration
other
- If using a septic tank system, maintain it properly through regular inspections and licensed pumping every two to three years.
- http://learningstore.uwex.edu/pdf/B3583.pdf
Keeping in mind the environmental consequences of our actions and taking advantage of natural processes can easily be translated into specific, positive actions around the home and community. You can help make sure that in Dane County, only rain goes down the storm drains and into the ditches by following the many suggestions here.
Adapted from Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, University of Wisconsin Cooperative Extension, Dane County Lakes and Watershed Commission and other publications.
